Neither Alice nor I can pack light. We packed almost as much for this one-week segment of our trip as we did for the other four months. We left the hot-weather clothes and my scuba gear at home and added a coat each. It’s good that we’re both pack rats — neither of us can get angry at the other one for packing too many things.
Nonetheless, we did meet our packing goals:
- Airport Friendly: Easy to get around at the airport. I rolled two bags and wore one backpack. Alice rolled one carry-on and carried two small shoulder bags.
- Airline Friendly: Since this was a continuation of our Round the World airfare, we had a generous luggage allowance: two checked bags, two carry-ons, and one personal item each. We had only half of that!
- Taxi Friendly: Everything fits in a standard Uber or Taxi.
- TSA Friendly: Our passports and electronics were readily available for inspection at security if needed.
- Staircase Friendly: When we encountered stairs, I was able to lift everything in two trips.
Maritime Museum of the Atlantic
There were two traumatic moments in the early 20th century that are etched in Halifax’s history. Whole sections of the museum were devoted to each of these two tragedies.
Halifax played a somber role in the aftermath of the Titanic tragedy. When the ship sank in 1912, Halifax was the closest major port with telegraph connections to the disaster site, so it became the center of recovery operations. The city’s morgues, churches, and undertakers were overwhelmed as over 150 victims were brought ashore, transforming the city into the Titanic’s final port.
On the morning of December 6, 1917, Halifax Harbor became the site of one of the most devastating explosions in history. A French munitions ship loaded with explosives bound for Europe, collided with a Norwegian vessel in the narrow harbor channel. The resulting fire ignited the ship’s cargo—TNT, picric acid, and benzol—triggering a blast so powerful it leveled much of the city’s north end, killed nearly 2,000 people, and injured over 9,000 more. The explosion’s shockwave shattered windows fifty miles away.
Halifax Harbour Hopper Tour
To get a quick overview of Halifax, we boarded a retrofitted military amphibious vehicle, called The Halifax Harbour Hopper Tour. After touring downtown, the vehicle splashed into the water and became a boat to complete the harbor tour.
Hop-on hop-off bus tour
We booked tickets for two days on the Halifax Hop-on Hop-off Bus Tour that offered an engaging way to explore Halifax aboard authentic vintage double-decker buses with ten stops.
All of the attractions that interested us were within walking distance of our hotel. So, we used the bus to see the town and hear about its history from their onboard guides and to get from one area to another quickly.
Halifax Waterfront
We visited the boardwalk along the waterfront each of our three days in Halifax. It was a great place to find food and snacks and to sit and people-watch.
Saint Mary’s Cathedral Basilica
The stop on the hop-on hop-off bus nearest to our hotel was in front of the St. Mary’s Cathedral Basilica, making it easy to visit. It is a Gothic Revival church architecture and one of the city’s most iconic landmarks.
We arranged to arrive in time for their free guided tour. We were underwhelmed. The interior had few decorations and no elaborate statues. We learned during the tour that the church had been badly damaged in the 1917 explosion. During the tour, we explored a small museum section within the basilica that contained the relics and photos of the basilica before the blast. Yes, it had been incredible in the past. We were just a century too late.
Citadel
The Halifax Citadel National Historic Site is a massive star-shaped fort dating back to 1749. Visitors today encounter costumed interpreters representing the 78th Highland Regiment and Royal Artillery.
Alice and I attended their guided tour of the citadel. After the tour, I explored the upper ramparts and the 2nd-floor museum while Alice explored the gift shop.
Halifax Public Gardens
Established in 1867, the Halifax Public Gardens was designated a National Historic Site of Canada in 1984 in recognition of its exceptional preservation of Victorian “Gardenesque” traditions.
We had ridden past the gardens on board the Harbor Hopper Tour and again on a hop-on, hop-off bus.
On our last day in Halifax, we decided to spend several hours at the Gardens and walked there from the Citadel. Luckily, we found a free guided tour just about to start. It was an exceptional ending to our stay.